Criollo - Oaxaca, Mexico

Mexico is one of the world’s top food destinations. Much of the fanfare hovers in Mexico City, and for good reason. But Criollo in Oaxaca is deserving of every laurel: It was birthed by chef Enrique Olvera of CDMX’s (Mexico City’s) elegant and renowned restaurant, Pujol. Pedigree aside, Criollo holds its own. I savored a 7-course chef’s tasting menu of local and seasonal fare including soups, moles, plantain and wood-fired tortillas. The food was delightful but not fussy; modern clay tableware was a quiet but complimentary backdrop to the melange of organic ingredients. Seating is outdoors. The menu changes daily. The significance of Criollo’s setting however is longer lasting: A UNESCO heritage destination bestowed to the site honors its historical and cultural permanence.

Holiday poinsettias adorn a table.

fin.

Photography by Nadia Sesay.